All Aboard for Leavenworth, Vita November 25, 2025

This article was written by Lise Boullard and originally published in Vita.

A train trip through the Cascade mountains to the charming Bavarian-themed town hits the perfect balance of nature, romance and relaxation.

Go: From Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station grab some snacks and coffee on board the Amtrak Cascades, fold down your table tray and sit back to watch the moving picture show as you experience the trip to Seattle from a completely different perspective. Amtrak has maintained many of its core features since it was first introduced in 1971 — large windows with scenic views, sleeper cars, spacious seating and staff who still wear conductor-style hats — which adds to the romance of the experience. This was even more evident on the three-and-a-half hour leg on the two-level Empire Builder train from Seattle to Leavenworth, where I had breakfast in the movie-set-like dining car and chatted with passengers who had been travelling since its Chicago stop.

Stay: When arriving by train from Vancouver, it’s best to break the trip to Leavenworth up into two days, and a stay at W Seattle was the perfect way to add some big city glam to my trip. Located in the heart of the business district, the boutiquey property features modern, comfortable rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing Seattle’s sparkling towers. A kaleidoscope of murals by local artist Morgan Zion, as well as local maker and chef pop-ups in the lounge area make for a fabulous jumping off point from which to explore the city’s attractions, many of which are in walking distance. Here, I used my CityPass to take a narrated harbour tour with Agrosy Cruises with views of the city and Mount Rainier, then headed to the Great Wheel at Pier 56 for a scenic spin.

In Leavenworth, I was looking forward to some R&R so I opted to stay a three-mile drive outside the town proper, at the storybook-like Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort. Nestled along the banks of the Icicle River, with majestic views of the Sleeping Lady mountain range, the former native American fishing camp and summer camp was reimagined by local philanthropist and visionary Harriet Bullitt in 1991. Today, many of the suites and chalets are still located in the original camp structures, with elevated amenities and accommodations inside. The resort is now owned by non-profit organization, The Icicle Fund, with 100 per cent of its proceeds supporting the area’s artists and culture. Case in point: stone sculptures placed along the resort’s winding pathways, watercolour paintings by local artist Heather Murphy in the rooms, and the piece de resistance: a cyclone-shaped 1,000 glass “icicle” installation by Seattle’s Dale Chihuly.

Play: In 1961 the people of Leavenworth needed to resuscitate the area’s dwindling logging industry. So they voted on a Bavarian theme in hopes it would attract tourism. And did it ever: about 2 million people visit the area every year for its European appeal and events like Oktoberfest, Mayfest, and the Autumn Leaf Festival. During the fall season the town attracts hikers who want to take in the autumn foliage and enjoy Bavarian fare at its many pubs and restaurants. At Christmastime, Leavenworth is alive with visitors coming for light shows, sleigh rides, cross country skiing and carol performances.

Spa: Located in one of the property’s original wood cabins, from outside, Sleeping Lady Resort’s Aspen Leaf Day Spa is unassuming. But when I stepped inside I felt a sense of inviting warmth wash over me; the rustic-luxe furnishings and essential oils making me feel as if I’d just opened a Kinder egg. This dreamy experience continued in the treatment room where my esthetician hung my jacket on a warming rack before offering me a plush robe. I didn’t realize a facial could be a full body experience until this Signature Facial. The one-hour treatment used only 100% natural high-grade botanical-infused GlyMed products (including a Chocolate Enzyme Exfoliator), and included a deeply healing arm massage. Afterwards, I walked out into the sunny, foliage-filled courtyard feeling like I was on a cloud — and my skin was still glowing a week later.

Dine: Seattle has an exciting dining scene and on this trip I started the second day with a Kimchi-elevated Ruben sandwich at W Seattle’s Trace Market, and ended it with the crispy-creamy contrast of seared Alaskan sockeye salmon and potato puree at the hotel’s Living Room Bar. Other Seattle foodie highlights included Japonessa, where this Vancouver sushi snob was impressed by the Bento Box with tuna negitoro, salmon sashimi, teriyaki ribeye steak and tempura calamari enjoyed in a chic black setting. At Sleeping Lady Resort, the buffet brunch at Kingfisher — with views of the Icicle River and Sleeping Lady mountain range — was the perfect way to fuel up before heading out to explore the property, and kept me going until dinner. Post-facial, the Neapolitan cookie (think Strawberry, matcha and vanilla rainbow) and spiced apple cider were a sweet treat at the resort’s newly opened Lupin market café. And a trip to Leavenworth wouldn’t be complete without a beer and a loaded ‘Brat’ (Bavarian hot dog) at München Haus on pedestrian-only Front Street.